Genuine Part Gp1083167 Silent Fill Valve Kit For All Kohler Class Five Toilets,12.5" x 3.5" x 3"

Excellent! This valve kit It appears to be of a high quality and is so easy to install. Total time to install (including removing the last 1/2 inch of water from the tank) was 15 minutes. Was finished, turned on the water, tank filled, up, no leaks..perfect!!!

Recently my toilet started barely refilling its tank after a flush. It would take 30-40 minutes to refill and I could hear the water just barely trickling in. I could sometimes get it to work correctly again by shutting off the supply valve and then turning it on again so I suspected a bit of debris or lime scale stuck in the valve that would occasionally work its way loose. I took it apart to clean it and discovered that the rubber diaphragm at the top of the valve was broken and slowly disintegrating into black rubber dust. The chlorine in the water supply keeps bacteria from growing, but it sure is hard on plastic and rubber plumbing parts. I cross-referenced the number on the valve and eventually came up with this part. For less than $20 I had it on my doorstep in a couple of days. Installation was a breeze. The hardest part was making sure I didn't leak water all over the floor. I shut off the supply valve and flushed the toilet until I couldn't get any more water out of the tank, then I used a small battery-powered pump to drain the rest of the tank's contents into the bowl. A dollar-store turkey baster is slower but also works-- just don't use it in the kitchen after. Or you can just put a small basin or bowl on the ground to catch the water when you remove the valve. Some will probably spill so it's a good idea to get as much out of the tank as you can first. You can install this valve with a single large adjustable wrench, but it's better if you use two. I used silicone grease on all the rubber parts (the seal inside the tank as well as the one in the supply line), and I put a very thin film on the threads of the valve body itself. Silicone grease keeps the rubber components from binding and tearing on reassembly and also keeps the plastic threads from galling or seizing over time. You have to adjust the height of the valve as well as the float. In my case, I just matched them to my old valve. The instructions for setting the height are pretty clear. You must also install the correct fill rate restrictor. They are color coded so I just used the same color that was on my original valve (red in my case). Installation took about 10 minutes. When I was done I turned the supply valve back on and the tank refilled completely in a minute or two. A couple of test flushes later and I could see that the new fill valve was working correctly. Problem solved. If you're handy with tools, this is a repair that you can easily perform yourself in less than a half hour. I don't know what a service call costs for a plumber nowadays but I can't imagine it would be less than $100 and I'm guessing closer to $150. Immediately after I installed this valve, I bought another to keep in stock. If (when) the rubber valve seal breaks again, I'll be able to swap it out. I keep this valve, a flush valve, and a couple of flush valve seals in stock so I can fix almost anything that goes wrong, even if it's the middle of the night. If you can turn a wrench, you can too. UPDATE: Like clockwork, another toilet valve failed in the same way as the first (torn rubber piece preventing it from filling). This time I had a replacement fill valve on the shelf and installed it in less than 20 minutes. Here's a hint. If you shut off the water and flush the toilet several times, you can empty most but not all of the tank. There will still be about an inch left in the bottom. I used a small 12V DC pump and some vinyl tubing to empty the rest of the tank into the toilet bowl. That way, the little bit of water that spilled when I removed the fill valve could easily be caught by a towel. The pump that I used is PN 1J5955651, which is a washer pump for a BMW or VW. I bought it a long time ago for another project that stalled and I've used it ever since as a small utility pump. I power it with an 18V cordless tool battery. It isn't really happy with 50% more voltage going to it, but I've done it a few times now and it keeps working. It cost less than $10 here on Amazon at the time but now goes for about $12. Maybe not worth buying just for one job, but I had all this stuff laying around so I was able to improvise. The install was uneventful. Like before, I used silicone grease on the threads and seals, but this isn't necessary. A couple of adjustable wrenches and a large set of water pump pliers (IE Channellocks) were all that I needed to do this job. As soon as I was done, I ordered yet another valve to keep on the shelf, just in case. For the price, I'd rather have it in stock and ready to go.

Exact OEM replacement for most Kohler toilet fill valves. Easy installation. I always keep one on hand for each of my toilets.

Easy to replace this and works good except the bowl fill tube has like 5 different fittings, I guess to control how much water goes in the bowl, but there is no documentation on which one does what.

Great price and super easy to install. Functions exactly as the original. All I did was look up what I had and purchased it. Make sure to get the one currently in your tank. Stop leaking immediately. Easy and fast DIY. No need for repairman. YouTube will walk you through installation and adjusting.

Well, my toilet was running a mile a minute. After a billing disaster (over $600 for the water company, $675 for the plumber!) with another toilet in the house two days after Christmas, I at least recognized the problem and it gave me a clue about what needed to be done. I watched some videos on YouTube, checked and double-checked the parts that I needed, and got down to it. The job was not as hard as I expected. Being a disabled person, my hand strength isn't the best. The only trouble I had was unscrewing the valve that was on the outside of the tank after I drained it (easily solved with a hand mirror and a portable light). I used a sliding wrench. Be sure to keep your old valve for reference. Set up the same height as the new one, use the proper flow restrictor valve, etc. Some saved their old hoses. The new one was adequate for my tank. After installing it, I couldn't understand why it kept running. (To make it stop, I had been pulling up on the top to stop it when it would overfill.) The solution was one that I overlooked and NONE of the YouTube videos had mentioned: On the right side of the intake unit is a stick-like device with a spring on the bottom and a screw valve on top. I just took a Phillips screwdriver and adjusted that a bit...and voila!!! The toilet stopped overfilling/running. This was NOT mentioned in the instructions. I had even tried rotating the unit itself in quarter turns. Turns out the toilet "needed a new HEAD for the driver!" D'oh! Anyhow, the product worked, and it became another page in my DIY manual! Don't be afraid to try new things, even if you have absolutely no idea of what you're doing. Gather your info first and start slowly. Follow directions, and don't be afraid to ask others for help or advice. This product saved me another large bill, and from having to stand at the toilet until the tank was full after flushing.

Correct part, fit as expected, delivered for free, cheaper than retail.

Worked good , no problems