Description says this is gasoline-powered—-is that an error?

Wow! That is an odd one! Must have been a cut and paste error. It is powered by 115V electricity--standard household current. Meant for baseboard hot water heating systems from a boiler.

I have a grundfox p/n 598961178 that's making noise. can i use this on or is there a better fit to replace?

They work for me as replacments

This is not always a simple question. You always turn off the power to and disconnect the old pump's electrical cable and after installing the new pump attach the electrical cable and restore the power. If you have shut-off flanges, then you close the valves on either side of the old pump unbolt the flanges, replace the gaskets with new ones insert the new pump, bolt the flanges tightening evenly, and open the valves. If you don't have shut off flanges, it takes more work. read the following and decide if you want to install shut off flanges at he same time so you don't ever have to do this again. (Hint: you want to install the shut off flanges) Shut off the water supply to the boiler's auto-fill. attach a hose to a boiler drain below the circulator pump and put the other end of the hose into a drain, then open the valve for the boiler drain. after some part of an hour has passed the water will cease draining. unbolt the old pump from the flanges, replace the gaskets, insert the new pump between the flanges, bolt the new pump in, tightening the bolts evenly. close the boiler drain with the hose attached. Open the water supply valve for the boiler's auto-fill. after some minutes have passed the pressure gauge on the boiler will read 15 lbs. For each circulator pump there will be a valve of some type in the line leading to the pump and a drain with a hose fitting just above the valve which is above the pump. For each pump, attach the hose, close the valve in the pipe that leads to the pump. Manually open any and all zone valves serving this pump. Open the drain valve until all the air has been pushed out and only a solid stream of water emerges (think in terms of minutes, not seconds) then close the drain valve, close any zone valves that were manually opened and open the in-line valve. When all zones have been purged of air, repeat the process for all zones, air tends to migrate. Make sure that any zone valves that were manually opened are closed and all the inline vales that were closed have been opened. Check that auto-fill has refilled the system and the pressure gauge once again reads 15 psi before turning the power back on. Turn all the thermostats up so that all zones are calling for heat. After the boiler has heated back up the circulator(s) will start to circulate water. feel the pipes to find make sure that hot water is leaving and returning to determine if any of the zones are air-bound. Purge air trapped in any air-bound zone. Hot water can't hold as much dissolved gas as cold water. It is normal for small amounts of air to be purged from the various float vents. It saves time to look for float vents with mineral streaks showing they're dribbled water in the past and replace them when the pump is replaced. Float vents dribbling water must be either cleaned or replaced, and if they've dribbled water before they will start dribbling again when the system is drained and refilled and they may not stop dribbling Since they can't all be cleaned and those that can be cleaned don't always clean successfully replacing the vents is the more common strategy. Its safe to assume a system that doesn't have flange valves doesn't have vent valves, so to either clean or replace a vent those the system will have to be turned off and drained below the level of the float vent and then all the filling and purging will have to be repeated. Consider buying the little valves for the float vents so the system doesn't have to be drained twice and then buy them. Now you don't have to drain the system for anything other than the expansion tank. When the light bulb over your head starts to glow, buy a valve for it. Multi turn boiler drain valves eventually start to leak. Metal hose caps can stop the leaks. Replace multi-turn boiler drains with 1/4 turn ball valve boiler drains. People who use teflon tape for lots of threaded pipe connections have some that leak to re-do. People who use Rectorseal No. 5 don't leaks to re-do.

I have a 59896341 ups 15-58fc how does this model differ? can i use it?

The 15-58FRC has a rotated flange. Note how the flange ears are in line (parallel) with the motor housing. The flange on the 15-58FC is opposite and perpendicular to the motor housing. Depending how your near boiler piping is routed, you could use either pump (the performance specifications are identical, only the flange orientation differs).

UPS15-58FRC 3-Speed Circulator Pump w/IFC, 1/25HP, 115V (59896343)

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