Dorman 926-959 Patented Upgraded Aluminum Engine Oil Filter Housing with Oil Cooler and Filter Compatible with Select Models (OE FIX)

I don’t often write reviews, but I had to for this one. I work as a mobile mechanic, and I get a lot of calls for failing oil coolers on Chrysler products — especially the 300s. The original oil cooler is notorious for leaks and a ton of related issues. Whenever I replace a failing cooler, I always look for quality parts is best compared or above OEM standards, and this one goes above and beyond. Not only do you get a complete aluminum oil cooler, but it also comes with the oil filter and intake manifold seals, replacement screws for installation, and a port plug for specific models — which alone would cost about $80–$90 separately. This kit was clearly made with mechanics in mind. It saves me time and money by including everything I need in one box, so I don’t have to make an extra trip to the parts store. If anything, I wish this came with injector seals but that’s me being picky. The included gaskets are high-quality, and the color-coded design with a card explaining the gasket change - a nice touch. The cooler performs better than the original and keeps temperatures lower. Installation-wise, the cooler itself is easy. The hard part is just getting to it. Once installed, it fits perfectly in the valley, and I’ve had no oil pressure issues at all - in all my time installing these units. If you want to save around $150, buy it online. And if you want to save yourself a headache, get the Dorman cooler. Trust me, this isn’t a job you’ll want to redo.

Get rid of the factory plastic ....Dont he fooled by copies of the Doorman , dont compromise on the price .Perfect fit, no leaks ......contruction is robust, American Made and should last forever . Dont forget to buy and replace both oil pressure sensor and coolant temp sensors. Search them independintly on Amazon . They are not expensive. Install should be done by a pro. Unless you are one.... My vehicle , 2014 Jeep JK V 6 ......This engine is in many Chrysler products...

Purchased this for when mine finally let go, unfortunately had to install in recently. I did my own research on what actually had to come apart to do the install, replaced the part on the car trailer in the driveway in about 2 hours. The quality of this is leaps and bounds better than factory, easy to assemble and install and comes with a great list of alternative oil filters that can be used with part numbers. This was a great buy and definitely got me out of a jam.

I used the 2016 jeep jk dorman part. It worked perfectly. It's been several months since I installed the part. It's perfect. BUT, if you have a jk, you might notice (like I did), that after 90k miles, your oil cooler AND valve cover gaskets will begin to leak. You should expect to replace all of these gaskets. I did them all and have resolved all oil leaks.

Perfect replacement for the plastic oil cooler. I swapped this part out 10 months ago and haven't had any issues with it. Took about 4 hours start to finish to do the replacement and it didn't require any specialty tools. However absolutely drain your radiator and your oil before starting this repair. I thought I could get away with not removing it because I had the front of the car propped up and all of the fluid continued to bubble up into the valley of the engine and I wound up having to do a full radiator and oil system flush when I finished. Seems to be perfectly functional and super durable and I'm very pleased

Installed into a 2019 dodge caravan. Had to sand down some shape and built up edges to make sure no flakes ended up in the engine. Perfect fit and gaskets seem like good quality for aftermarket installation. 25000 miles later and still no leaks or issues. Oils filter is cheap and should be replaced at 5k miles or less.

Factory unit is plastic which cracked and allowed coolant to leak. I am confident this is a lifetime fix.

The oil cooler is a known weak spot. You should, depending on mileage or age, replace both sensors on the housing. It has a coolant/oil temp switch on some models and an oil pressure sensor on all. It’s not easy to replace as it is under the intake plenums, you have two. Clean everything nicely and do not use sandpaper or a 90° angle grinder on it. I suggest swapping out your valve cover, gaskets depending on mileage while you’re in there. It is not easy. I have been a mechanic for over 20 years. It’s not that difficult either. It’s just time consuming. Take your time. Make sure you clean everything and when you get it together, you can run an oil pressure building procedure. The way you do this is you put your gas pedal all the way down to the floor and then proceed to start your jeep. The jeep will not start the 3.6 and 3.8 motors will not fire up if the gas pedal is depressed all the way. This will allow the engine to build oil pressure turn the key and attempt to start the car with the gas pedal down for 3 to 5 seconds then you have to turn the key all the way off because the Jeep will attempt to start itself. After you do this one or two times I suggest three times for 3 to 5 seconds each. Then pull your foot off of the gas pedal and start the vehicle. Do not use angle grinders, or anything on the gaskets in the valley you will destroy the block. When you’re cleaning up the intake gasket, use a plastic scraper or a gasket, scraper and brake cleaner or a solvent to clean the gasket material off of the intake. Do not damage your heads. Make sure you clean out the intake real well because you’re gonna have oil in there. The emissions regulations on these engines do not allow the crank case ventilation to go to the atmosphere. That’s why you will see oil in the system. You need to catch it to do anything about this or attempt to mitigate it. Yes, it looks good and it has a cool orange color and it’s aluminum. I’m not sure how well that is as the factory unit lasted me 11 years and 115,000 miles with very very small leaks. It’s been about five days since I’ve installed this unit and I continue to bleed the coolant and check my oil. When you bleed your coolant, make sure that you open up the valve on the top of the thermostat housing or you will have a heck of a time getting the air out of the system. This is well known for the 3.6. Search YouTube for help. Use 5-w30 oil from here on out. This is why they have rocker issues. If you are in the Midwest or somewhere in the center, you can use 5W-30 if you’re in a call the region you could probably use 5 20 with no issues if you’re in a warmer region adjust accordingly.

The product is made in Malaysia and is of low quality. Why was it not made clear that it was made in Malaysia? I want American made. In general, the quality is bad. There is no professionalism in the final appearance. Aluminum alloy inserts are not equal and I do not recommend purchasing them.

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After smelling a strong odour coming through my heater vents, I initially thought the exhaust was leaking but the pools of oil rapidly forming under the car let me to research leaks on the Grand Caravan, and this became the number one culprit. I watched a bunch of videos online about how to replace this, and as a fairly competent home mechanic with basic level tools I took my time, checked and double checked everything, and had the whole thing done in probably 3-4 hours outdoors on the driveway. It's been a week and no more smells or oil leaks. It's not the cheapest replacement part, but the quality appears to be good, and there is some basic assembly required so make sure you have all the tools before you start. A lb-in torque wrench is a good idea if you want to be precise as well as something like water pump pliers or hoseclip removal pliers. Car trim removal tools proved really useful for loosening old hoses. Also, I'd recommend getting an oil transfer/extractor syringe that will make light work of cleaning out most of the pooled oil that will have collected in the valley between the cylinder banks. Much better than soaking it up with paper towels. In some online guides they will instruct you to remove the fuel hose from the injector manifold - i found it easier and quicker to remove the airbox, leave the fuel rail connected and simply flip the injector manifold over to where the airbox used to be.

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Installed a few months ago and still no problem. Throw away the plastic OEM junk and replace it with Dorman alloy parts. That's the way to go.