Automotive - Metallic Gray - 1 Quart - Rust Inhibitor & Protective Coating for Cars, Trucks, & Metal Surfaces, UV Resistant, No Topcoat Needed

Five star review. This rust inhibitor paint is the best stuff one can buy on the market and even the army and navy and major architecture landmarks use it and has genuine patent awards. Does that tell you something? It will save your precious automotive vehicles or any metal items from rusting or worsening condition. There's a lot to study about the right application and best results for this paint but I'll break it down. The photos show my cars undercarriage so in my case it is an automotive project. Use a conjunction of products from rust bullet for best results, metal blast, the paint, and clear coat. You also require disposable brushes from the dollar store, nitrile gloves, mask, overalls, goggles, PPE. Bloxygen too if your going to reseal the paint can. 1. Clean the undercarriage of the car, prep work, use a garden hose and wire brush to scrape off oil and dirt etc. Remove loose rust. Step 2, when totally dry you'll jack the car up and spray metal blast dissolving the rust and creating an adhesion to the metal so when you paint it'll stick. It undergoes a chemical reaction. Let sit for 20 min or so, then rinse with garden hose and dry. Step 3, paint in a garage indoors is a must with temp 50-80 F and no rain, 1st paint coat by brush and 4-6 H dry time, important, don't wait more than 12 H after 1st coat, it'll harden so do 2nd coat after it's dry. Filler, then sealer. Do 2nd coat, let dry, boom, ready for two clear coats next, 2-4 H dry time and when every nook and cranny is covered just wait 72 H or less, full cure time before exposure to outdoors. It'll make the metal look brand new and shiny with the clear gloss. You won't see any rust underneath. It's not that expensive and should be used way more often in a automotive world of mistreatment and any vehicle with this conjunction of paint will last forever. The paint acts as a filler, stopping the rust, it's water resistantance is unbelievable, I got a good amount of paint on my hands and the water evaporates within seconds and the stickiness is the bond to the metal so it's staying there in form so long as the car body is there too. Superior barrier on the metal, recommended to do the undercarriage first and then take car panels off, (fenders, bumpers,) and paint the wheel well areas and inner frames especially. You can do the trunk and bench seat areas too if your really into it but especially undercarriage area for winter driving. Ventilated area is a must, strong odor and causes bad headaches so be professional when using it. It's not ordinary paint, drys like cement so cover floor with plastic sheets. Note- only pour out what your going to use in an hour and reseal the can immediately. Moisture sensitive. Opened can will last a month with bloxygen. Stir before use. Depending on how much rust you have or area the small 1/4 pint cans will barely cover half your undercarriage 1st coat, 1/4 PT = 6 SQ FT. A quart is plenty for 2 coats with a little extra and a pint would be enough for 1 coat. If you get paint on your hands or such use acetone and cotton ball. Removing the dry paint from a surface is near impossible. Its important to know the temperature limit too, only paint surfaces that won't exceed 450 degrees, car body areas yes, exhaust system and lines don't do or any engine bay areas either with risk of damage. Use high heat primer and paint for those areas. My project turned out phenomenal and saved my show car that I put so much time and effort into and yours can too with this wonderful paint product. If you want the best and are willing to put time and effort into it this paint is top of the line. Not a cheap wd40 job that lasts a season but lasts a lifetime. Highly recommended, five star review.

I've used Rust Bullet for years on my 2000 4Runner that spent some time in the salty northeast.Prior to the salt exposure, I brushed Rust Bullet on all the common trouble areas: frame, joints, welds, etc. I then undercoated the remainder of the frame. This was over ten years ago. The areas where I applied Rust Bullet have remained 95% rust free, with only a few minor specks finally showing through here and there, likely from poor prep or rocks chips.With all rust treatments, surface preparation is critical. This applies like a paste and hardens exceedingly well. It's expensive, but a little bit goes a LONG way. Make sure to be cautious when you are first opening the can - it is very difficult to seal it up again if you don't use it all. I actually applied some cheap silicone caulk around the lip to ensure it won't harden on the shelf.

I used this on the hood of my 1972 VW super beetle and I'm about to apply it on the deck lid and roof. I used locktight rust remover gel on the small amount of rust spots, followed by a mild degreaser to wash, then applied rust bullet. It brushed on smooth, left no brush marks, covered beautifully and actually looks nice. I'm confident that this product will protect the metal while also creating a nice smooth even surface to paint over. I've had it on my hood for over a month now and its holding up well. The can is bit of a pain to open but, I'm 60yrs old with arthritis in my hands and I managed to get it off without spilling any so.....regardless of the 5 mins it took to pry it off, once I saw the performance of this product? I'd gnaw it off with my teeth if I had too (almost) to get it open the product is worth it. Don't shake the can, leave it upright, pry open and stir it well to insure you get no bubbles, and brush it on your classic vehicle with confidence. I just ordered more p!us a can of rust bullet whiteshell and a can of their blackshell which I plan on using inside and outside of my vehicle. You won't find a better product, don't let the difficult can scare u off this great product. Remember, if it gets bubbles while opening, let them dissipate before application, stir until mixed well with no bubbles for a perfect finish. Enjoy, and good luck with ur restoration project.