Brownells Aluma-Hyde 2 Epoxy Based Firearms Finish Aerosol Can Matte Black

I've used the previous iteration of Aluma-Hyde with good results, so picking this was a no brainer. I wiped down my shotgun barrel and the metal part on the hand guard with several passes of acetone. Once dry, I hung the barrel up in the back yard and started spraying. It covers VERY well, not needing my paint at all. I then hung it in a spare room for two weeks to let it fully cure. It looks spectacular and should protect against rust. A week or two later I sprayed a .22 pistol slide with it and got some clumping. I shook it well, so I'm guessing it had to do with the nozzle being partially blocked from when I painted the shotgun barrel. Regardless, the finish still came out smooth. The next test is durability. The original formula is durable so I expect this one will be as well. If not, I'll edit this review. For now, it is a winner!

You have to know how to use a rattle can, I looked at all the bad reviews and tried it anyway. Every single bad review is from someone that clearly doesn’t know how to use any form of spray paint. Absolutely nothing wrong with this product whatsoever and am very happy with the results. Goes on thicker than a regular spray paint and due to using small amounts just like any other spray can just clean the nozzle surface off when you’re done.

I paint stuff all the time. Guns, cars, patio furniture. I have Big expensive air setups, little cheap air brush kits, have used duracoat, cerakote, krylon, Rust-Oleum in cans. But I was looking to get a can of something "better" for a cheap gun frame. Idk about the durability or quality of this paint because the can and nozzle don't work. Followed all directions on can exactly. Here's what happens. Can starts off spraying with some sputtering for a few seconds then it sprays a nice beautiful mist, then the mist randomly starts getting thicker and sputters out again ruining my frame. Well it ruined what I was trying to do, the frame is soaking in a stripper right now. The can was shaken for no less than 5 min. Can was warm when applying as per directions. It's just worthless. If I wanted a short cut a can of krylon would have done me better. Update: I have a lot of junk laying around and decided to try this on some stuff that I don't care about. What I noticed throughout the process is that using 220 micro grit paper to prep the surface is essential for the strongest bond. Normally with duracoat or kylon I use a 400 and it's perfect for a strong bond. With this stuff it is not. That being said, krylon is still stronger in my opinion. I oven cured the brownells for 2 hours at about 180-200 degrees on each surface prepped with different grits. Let all sit for 2 days then scratch tested them. On all of them the scratches were tearing of flakes of paint. I do not have this issue with kryon. The other big issue was the lack of consistency with the spray. As it went on really uneven and had these splatters and splotches. I still have that issue but in the process of oven curing, it smoothed out a little bit. Still not as good as cheaper options. So i still conclude that your should just use krylon. Do all your normal prep; sand, degrease by cleaning then low temp in oven to draw out more oil then hit with brake cleaner, paint with matte krylon (dries really fast between coats), oven cure for a few hours or air cure for a few days, finish with fast drying krylon matte clear coat. I promise you will have a better result than this over priced stuff.

It's a great, strongly sustainable element of spray paint. It helped me complete my projects with ease! It sprays so easy and correctly with no run-downs and drips. Haven't noticed a fault at all.

I've used this stuff on a few guns, and when it works, it works great. This last time it worked perfect while I was at work on an 870. I gave it a few hours dry time, it felt dry, and foolishly I layed the receiver and barrel on my truck seat and drove home. It wasn't dry enough evidently and left a fabric mark in the paint. So I wait 30 days for it to cure, hit it with some fine sandpaper, and shoot it again. The paint had clogged the can up. In frustration, a few days later I try it again, and the can worked. I was just finishing up and got a splatter, 30 days wait time again before sanding out. This time I put regular camo paint over the top of it. The base coat is Aluma-Hyde, which is very durable, and that is where I left it at. Some of this was my fault, so no complaints, and I'd do it again as this stuff is good.

It’s a great product through and through. However it is not easy to use. Please consider watching some of the brownells prep and application videos. To do this right it’s a lot of meticulous work and honestly takes practice. Color accuracy is on par with Magpul od green. Paint is thick and requires constant shaking. Thickness and texture depends on spray technique and your level of patience. You have options of curing let it sit or bake it. Don’t be upset with yourself if you mess up along the way. Even if you sprayed it thick and cured it right if your surface prep wasn’t the best it will scratch. However if prep, sprayed and cured correctly it’s significantly sturdier and more scratch resistant than regular spray paint, but it is not cerakote so take it easy cowboy. Enjoy the process have fun.

I got this paint today and went to work on my Canik slide. It did awesome. I did 2 coats and in the oven each time at 220 for 20 minutes and I am very happy with the results. Coyote is a great color. Highly recommend this paint.

This product is super easy to use sprays smooth finish really looks good. Excited to see how this holds up..