Hantek CC-65 AC/DC Multimeter Current Clamp Meter with BNC Connector Up to 20 kHz 20mA to 65A DC

worked great.

Not bad for a cheap current clamp. It's been sufficient for most of the stuff I have used it on, I have since bought a higher end clamp, but I use this one here and there. Things to keep in mind, they do state not to exceed 300v and to keep it under 300v it is limited to a 20us rise time so you will not accurately capture fast transients, and when you try to you get massive overshoot and undershoot plus ringing. But as a general current clamp, even for checking inrush current etc. its fine. The degauss button ALWAYS gets stuck, but I took some bearing/keyboard grease and lubed up the circular button and now it works all the time without getting stuck, terrible design choice but you get what you pay for I suppose and my solution did work. Attached is the inrush current of something I was working on, if it's in milliseconds this will work all day long, once you start getting down to the microseconds you have to be careful about the results.

Don't expect to accurately measure anything below 1 Amp. But good above that for the price.

Easy to use and high compatibility.

I have only made one experiment, but I am happy with the result. Captured on the scope is a single TIG weld pulse. The current was set to 40A; The probe registered about 37A. I don't know how well the source is calibrated, so can't blame either the probe or the source for the inaccuracy, but the result is pretty good for what I want to do -- I need it to calibrate the spot timer and to understand the waveforms in different weld modes. The bandwidth is more than good enough for that. The time scale shown is 2ms/div; the claimed bandwidth of more than 20kHz looks credible. I actually saw a very well-defined trace of ignition current; it looked like a decaying sine wave with a frequency far above 20kHz. Part of it is seen as the bright blob at the start of the pulse; the front was not captured with this trigger setting and the tail of the ignition waveform washed out in the flood beam while I reached for the camera. I was not too concerned with ignition, so I didn't bother capturing it, but I know I can at least see the first harmonic and pulse enevelope of ignition current, should I ever need to observe it.

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This is a must have accessory to have with ANY DSO! I have used it with my bench scope and I have used it with my little open source pocket scope (needed a $5 adapter). Being able to see current flow is hugely helpful in troubleshooting electrical issues esp in automotive applications. Injectors, ignition coils, pumps and motors, you can see how much power any of them are drawing right from the fuse box with a tool like this.For example Imagine being able to see if your power window motor was bad with out taking your door apart. With the right know how you can with this tool. Saves time, saves money and makes things easier. Like all tools you need to know learn how to use it, to unlock its full diagnostic potential, but the actual function of the tool is simple turn it on, clamp it over a conductor, and get a reading. Simple. The only compliant I have is I think that the lead can seem a little short at times but that is easily remidied by using a BNC extension cable. So bottom line if you spent the money on a scope you should buy one of these.

The unit worked well enough for the first 2 years. It stopped working and I threw it into the "bin". I purchase a different amp clamp that had a better build quality. Last night I decided to make a final determination. Open it up one more time. If I could'nt get it to work it was going to its final resting home. I noticed if the on/off switch was pressed in firmly and held the power light would flash. Maybe there was hope? Opening the unit to get at the internals is something of a rubic cube. There are two metal "paws" retained by the on/off switch against the circuit board. Apparently there were not "springy" enough to make consistent contact with the pads on the circuit board. I re-tensioned the paws, put some Sanchem "A Special" grease on the pads and re-assembled. The clamp came back to life! The zero button still sticks, just have to "jiggle it". Seems like simple "quality issues" for Hantek to remedy with a couple of ECs.

Very happy with this product and it works perfectly.

Super

Exelente atención buen producto

When I first got my new current probe out of the box, I thought it was dead. Plugged the 9v battery (Not Included) into the back, plugged it into my DSO, switched it on, and... nothing. No lights. No change in the level when I hit 'zero', no readings when I clamped it onto the Vin line on my project. Except sometimes when I wiggled the switch just the right way, pressed down on it, the green 'Power' light would flicker for a second. I gave it a little shake, and I could hear a little rattle. I took the hazardous step of opening the back to see what was going on, and the problem was immediately apparent. Instead of using a discrete 3-position dptt switch, there's a hacky little arrangement that's prone to failure if you look at it funny. The plastic switch wiper has a pair of ductile little pieces of bent copper which are retained solely by compression between the wiper and the PCB underneath, and as they slide back and forth they make or break connections between tinned pads on the PCB. I suspect that pressing down too hard on the switch can bend them out of shape and let them fall out of place. It was a fiddly little fix bending them back into shape and lining everything up so it didn't fall apart again when I closed it back up, but it seems to work well enough as a current probe now. Sensitivity is acceptable at 100mv/A. I haven't had time to formally assess the accuracy and frequency response, but it seems to work reasonably at the low frequencies and currents I was using today.

Used for electronic testing