Quickset TPMS ECU Reset Tool (OBD relearn)

Worked great. Ordered wheels from tirerack with all needed hardware (new TPMS sensors). They suggested I needed the "ATEQ VT06 SCAN TOOL" but didn't mention the quickset as well. YOU NEED BOTH! The quickset lets you tell your car's ECU (computer) the TPMS sensor numbers for each wheel. It has a limit of 4 total cars remembered in the software with 2 wheel sets per car, so 8 total wheel sets. You need the TPMS sensor numbers in order to make this work. Tirerack ships your wheels with a piece of paper with these numbers written down. I don't know which corner they're on but with a subaru they don't report specific corners anyway so this isn't crucial. I just typed them into random corners. If you buy wheels and don't get these numbers you need a tool that can get them for you. The second part of the equation is you need something to "wake up" the new TPMS sensors. Apparently they're in a "deep sleep" when shipped to save battery life. To do this you need a tool to wake up the sensors. This is what the VT06 scan tool tire rack suggested does. It's a "dumb" tool in that it has a light that comes on but doesn't change. It basically just says the battery is installed correctly and you're pressing the button. But it does work. I have no idea how long I needed to hold it on the sidewall for, but 10 seconds worked (per wheel). You only need to do this ONCE in the life of the wheels (so the first time). After that you just use the quickset each time you switch wheels. You can also use a ATEQ VT31 to do the same task. The VT31 will also give you the sensor numbers for each wheel (and battery life and pressure). If you don't have the TPMS numbers for each wheel you will NEED the VT31. But if you have the TPMS numbers (say from tire rack) you can save money and get the TP6. You can decide if $50 for the "dumb" VT6 is better than $140 for the smarter VT31. For me it comes down to having the TPMS #s or not. I have mine thanks to buying new from tirerack so the cheaper VT6 is good enough. We also have both a key started legacy and a push start outback. The directions walk you through the steps using a key. You just need to have it in ACC mode. With a push start just push the button WITHOUT your foot on the brake pedal. This will put it into ACC mode. I might have needed to press it twice but it works. You also NEED a PC to make this work. I have a mac. Parallels lets you install windows and will allow this to work with a mac. Parallels also has a 14 day trial and will install windows for you. If you need to buy parallels that's another ~$80 for a license. I'll probably need that come spring when I switch back? A laptop makes this MUCH easier as you can have it in the car with you. The software walks you through the process step by step but you do need to plug it into the computer -> car -> computer -> car -> computer. That's a lot of walking if you're using a desktop! And if you're IMPATIENT like me? And drive on your new wheels without all these bits? And the TPMS light comes on every time you start the car? Follow the steps then go drive the car above 30mph. The light will go off and you're all set. But you HAVE to drive it over 30 for it to work. With 1 car I'd driven it over 30 without both parts which set off the TPMS light. Then EVERY time I started the car it'd give me a warning and blink for the first few minutes then stay lit. I had to go drive that car over 30mph after using the quickset to make the warning go away. In the other car that had NOT gone over 30 since the new tires were put on and didn't have the TPMS warning on, all I had to do was use the quickset in the garage and it was fine. I unhooked it and drove it over 30mph and it was fine. So a quick rundown (lots of steps but the software walks you through it all very clearly): Get new wheels. if brand new, get TPMS sensor activated via VT06/VT31 you need the sensor #s, get them using a VT31 if not supplied by seller get your PC out (laptop in car makes this much easier) parallels will work on a Mac DL and install their USB driver (google ateq quickset, their site has drivers and software, you don't need the CD) plug in Quickset via USB install their software follow all onscreen prompts choose car type turn car on to ACC mode (motor off) hook quickset to ODBII port (under dash) green LED will flash on quickset press summer button (to DL summer #s into quickset) unplug quickset from ODBII (leave cable attached, makes later steps easier) plug quickset into computer via USB their software will import summer TPMS #s. type in second wheel set TPMS #s into software (watch for hex/binary checkbox) unplug quickset from computer plug quickset into ODBII port flashing green LED on quickset press winter button (this puts new/second TPMS #s into the ECU) green LED should be solid now unhook ODBII from Program asks for quickset to be plugged back into computer via USB, not sure if needed. DONE! go drive over 30mph to verify it worked.

Software is just awful. EDIT: I _finally_ got it working. I stand by my one star review, and my original review. Let me detail what finally worked in case it helps someone else... The re-install problems were solved by a reboot. And since it "un-installed itself" 3 or 4 times overall, I had to reboot 3 or 4 times. To be clear, when I say that it "un-installed itself", I do not mean an official proper un-install. Instead, the actual executable gets deleted, and even weirder, the unzipped installation executable also gets deleted. I've never seen anything like it. I ended up making copies of both the (unzipped) installation files directory, and the actual install directory (C:\ATEQ\ATQuickset, the default) created by the install process. That install directory contains the executable, ATQuickSet.exe. On the last run, the executable from the official install directory was deleted (again), but I could run the executable from the copied directory, and it worked. Windows _thinks_ that ATQuickSet is still installed, but cannot find the EXE (because it has been deleted). But, to repeat myself, I can still run the copy. After all that hassle (many hours) I could finally run the QuickSet program, update the IDs in the program, "Save [IDs] to QuickSet" and then update the vehicle. One final note: Some reviewers seem to be saying that you must read the IDs from the car's ECU. That may be an option (I did not try) but I had all the IDs written down, so I put the IDs directly into the ATQuickSet program, and then saved them to to QuickSet unit. FIRST VERSION OF REVIEW: Cannot use. Cannot uninstall. Cannot re-install. On Win10, it took me 3 or 4 times to install it, then it worked, once. Then it seems to have uninstalled itself (could not find executable). Tried to re-inatll, but Installshield started getting "Access is denied" - even after I deleted the (hidden) Installshield directory. Uninstall does not work either. I work in tech, and this is about as bad an install mess as I have seen. Run away, fast. Read the other one star ratings, and believe them. If I had known this would not work, I would have stuck with the warning light being on all winter. Now, since I have already installed the winter tire TPMS units, I have to find another more expensive solution.

It's works fine with my 2012 Honda Accord. Downloaded and installed the software as per the info sheet supplied, plugged it into my Windows 10 PC, followed the onscreen instructions and everything worked as advertised. My only 'uh-oh' moment was when it did not work when plugged into Honda's OBDII socket. I pushed the connection together more firmly and the unit then worked fine and I could read the codes from my summer tires/rims. Like most things --- it's very easy to use once you know how. As my winter tires are on their own rims with different TPMS sensors I'll have to have them configured by a garage. But after that I'll be able to read and store the codes with the QuickSet tool and do it myself. Update 2019-11-11: I sometimes find that I have to write the code to my vehicle more than once for it to take. But it usually works fine on the second try. The tire pressure warning light flashes after changing the code between seasons but goes off after driving for 5-10 minutes.

Using it twice a year with a Subaru Forester XT 2014 to upload to vehicle winter/summer tires sensors settings. After getting used to it and the application- very easy to deal with. No need to pay to the workshop to reset sensors.

Winter/Summer wheel swaps will never involve the dealer again. My car requires ECU to be programmed to recognise new sensors. This does the job. Works 100% on a 2015 Toyota Yaris

I bought this item and it arrived in good order. However, I was unable to reset the TPMS light on my 2011 Toyota Highlander, limited edition. The seller was responsive but not helpful. I was advised it had been thoroughly tested on all Toyota Highlanders. After speaking with a friendly technician at a local tire shop, I was told tools like this TPMS reset tool will not work because it can only read / load codes for 4 wheels. My suv requires TPMS codes for all 5 wheels including the spare to be read/loaded each time. This tool cannot do that. I ended up shopping around online and found the Autel TS-501 did a much better job, which I now use for my suv and wife's car as well. If you only have to deal with the TPMS light when switching wheels for just one car, it might be cheaper to just pay the local tire shop $25 each time you swap out your tires. That or put black electrical tape on the dash so you don't see the bright yellow light.

Works exactly as I expected. Makes switching my winter and summer tires on my Infiniti and Nissan a breeze and no need to go to the dealership to switch over the ECU to the new TPMS codes. Of note. This does require a second tool that reads the codes for you or you will need to have the TPMS sensor codes provided to use this. Once you have the codes it's a simple press of the button for tire switches.