PC Products PC-7 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Heavy Duty, 1lb in Two Cans, Charcoal Gray 167779

This is a much more affordable replacement for JB Weld. It has a long 1 hour working time. It does take a good 24 hours to cure solidly. The first hour it is still malleable by using a alcohol to smooth out the surface. It cures rock hard if you mix it in the right proportions and is mixed thoroughly. It sands very easily. I use this for creating fillets on high powered rocket fins, both plywood or fiberglass. Its easy to work with. It does not run/slide like thinner epoxies which allows you to apply it to multiple locations on your project at the same time. It is pretty thick to mix but is a great product overall. It is super strong. Use tape to mask off the area you don't want it to come in contact with.

I find a lot of excellent and helpful reviews here that all acknowledge that this is a demanding and challenging material to work with UNLESS you know what you are doing and THEN it is a very strong and long lasting material with many uses. Xylene is practically necessary. The value of being able to clean mixing surfaces and application tools INSTANTLY can't be overstated. This is probably the most difficult mixing I've seen with any material but it always works with the right tools and a little patience and the result is a heavy thick paste that gravity can sag before it fully sets hours later. That elastic strength is why it is one CRITICAL step in many demanding situations. I often like to use a thinner penetrating mixture first and follow it with this before fully cured until almost flush. Then I will usually finish with a finishing mix skim coat. Works great for me. I recommend every handy man or woman that doesn't know this stuff to get some to experiment with. Then you'll know what you're doing and what you can do with it. It lasts for years, even half used. I won't be without some on hand. Note: don't try to work this before it is half cured when you can scrape and carve it beautifully with different tools. Sanding shouldn't be attempted before full cured. Once cured, a lot of rocks wish they were this strong and the bond will be crazy good if you follow the easy steps.

I thought I'd already had left a positive review for this, but Amazon keeps asking me to do one so here it is. Pros/Cons: I used this to repair my20 year old vase shaped with a small basin fountain that had developed leaks, and cracks. Also used an easy to cut screen patch (also left a review on that a month ago) that this product enabled me to adhere the screen. Adhesive quality has been great so far, very easy to use with a disposable glove, no tools needed. Important to apply it only after the water has been drained out completely. first and no moisture is left on the area you want to patch. Allow it to dry for two full days to cure before lightly sanding any rough edges. I gently removed the sanding dust with a wet paper towel and then refilled the fountain with water. My fountain had faded from the original dark black color to a fairly light gray over the 20 years in the sunlight. I had assumed the black color of this adhesive would stand out like crazy, but once I started the fountain again it darkened the vase fountain to black again and the product remained exactly the same color as before so it blended very well! Personally, there are no cons, only pros for how I used it and the results! Highly recommend it for small projects!

When mixed properly at the right proportions they make a good bond and hard material which is sandable an covers metal sheet especially on auto body.

Consistent good results: I used it for two weeks now and made about 6-7 batches to glue metal banisters into the handrail of my staircase. Each batch cured well and there seems no difference in the end result despite the fact that I didn’t measure anything. I just eyeballed as best as I could. Work time: I actually don’t know! I used each batch within about an hour after mixing at about 70 degrees and low humidity. I noticed it got a little stiffer, but otherwise still as sticky as before. Cure time: After 24 hours it was very hard but had some minimal flexibility and after 48 hours it appears fully cured. However, this material doesn’t become brittle, which is important for my application as there is always going to be movement between the wood and metal. Consistency of paste and mixing: Each component has a distinctive different consistency. The light gray (part 1) is somewhat crumbly, grainy and slightly sticky. You can get it easily out of the can and reasonably well of the spatula that I used to scrape it out of the can. The pitch-black hardener (part 2) is a totally different story. It is annoyingly sticky and although thick, will slowly flow. Think of ultra-thick honey. This makes it a pain to get out of the can and very difficult to get off the spatula. Now to the mixing part. Somewhat difficult because it is sticky and thick, but within 3-5 minutes you end up with a dark grey paste that has the consistency of chewing gum. When you try to lift a small amount off the mixture, you will stretch the material until it gets thin enough to break off. For me, the best tool was a disposable chop stick which I rolled back and forth to capture the stretched-out material. Stickiness: I had to work it into the wood grain for it to stick well. For example, if I would drop a small amount on a smooth surface, I would suspect you could easily pry it off once it is cured. But once it is pressed into place it will never come off. Flow properties while uncured: As I alluded to before, this material will flow a little bit over the course of 1-2 hours. In my case, I had to smear it into the holes at the bottom of the handrail. It worked reasonable well, but you can't put too much in the hole or it will slowly flow out.

***Updated 12/05/2016***** Looks like the repair on the gas tank didn't last more than a 1-1/2 months. Went out and checked the gas tank on the car yesterday and while the fuel hasn't broken through and started leaking yet. There is an obvious bubble where the gas has escaped the tank and is now sitting between the product patch and the steel. You can push up on it and hear the gas/air going back into the tank. The product isn't wet to the touch yet and there's no gas smell, so it's resisting the gas but in time I imagine it will fail. As noted before, I tried every other product out there for patching gas tanks over the years and had high hopes that this would be my savior. Hopefully the patch will hold till the spring and I will just drop the tank and braze or weld the holes and be done with it. Using the proper safety procedures of course. *** End Update**** I used this product to repair a gas tank that was "weeping" fuel. PC-7 not only fixed that issue but the small 1/8" hole I made with the grinding wheel in the tank knocking down previously applied products. I had previously tried almost all of the products meant to fix leaking gas tanks and they all failed. Either immediately or shortly thereafter. Because it takes 24 hr's to cure @ 73 degrees F and longer when the temperature is below that, I wouldn't recommend this product if your stuck somewhere and need to get the car back on the road in a few hours. But your best chance at a successful and long lasting repair means you'll need to invest some time. The product is easy to mix and has a fudge factor of about 20% so if you add a little too much of one part you should still be alright. As with any repair of this type, the sheet metal has to be dry, free of dirt, oil, grease, and most importantly gasoline. If you use soap or glycerine to stop the leak you'll end up with a poor bond between the metal and the product. Best to drain the fuel from the tank and open the fuel cap to relieve the pressure in the tank Clean, abrade, and clean again. Make sure you see no fuel coming out of the area your trying to repair. I recommend picking up some denatured alcohol from a local big box store. Not only can you use it as the final cleaning step but it helps when applying the product as you can put some on a "gloved" finger and smooth out the product. Or use a acid brush for the same thing. You can also apply heat to the product to make it a little more malleable. Caution use the lowest setting on your heat gun or hair dryer and keep the heat at a minimum. Heat at a temperature of over 100 Degrees F will cause the material to turn into a pile of goop. Also be careful using heat anywhere near a gas tank. Lastly when you've applied the product you'll need to give it time to fully cure before adding gas to the tank. If the product isn't fully cured it will not resist the gasoline and the leak will re-occur. At that point you'll have to start all over again. Being the fall, I waited almost a week which wasn't a problem since the car isn't my daily driver. All in all, the product did what I needed it for albeit it takes longer than similar products on the market. Time will tell if the repair lasts.

This stuff is awesome. I’ve been using it for years. VERY strong. Does not sag. Can use vertically or overhead. You can sand, drip, paint, and more. Just make certain everything is clean and ruffed up a bit. Not a one hour epoxy, but worth the wait. My most recent application was in between skip welds on a irewall recess for HEI distributor

It works great, The reason I could not give it higher marks is because you must know what the heck your doing. The epoxy and the resin hardener are not easy to mix and equal portions is most important. It is not a liquid or a gel or even a paste it is a very stiff substance, like C4. But please note that this is where it's strength comes from, and it is not 'easy' to be spread, you should have the right tools and know exactly what you are going to do with it. Cleanup will require something strong if you make a mistake (xylene). The important thing is you can fabricate anything , I have even used it the weld two pieces of hardened plastics. This will outlast any 3D printed piece , and I have used it even on my siding that had a couple of bullet holes. I applied the material in a measured amount, using a flexible putty knife. Then I removed any excess with the aforementioned solvent. A day later in 40 degree weather it hard enough to apply a small hand sander to feather out. Then I painted over it- and viola- bullet holes are gone and can now sell my house without question. Fixed broken lamps, works great with metal and glass and hard synthetic surfaces. Not the best for softwoods- lastly- as long as you don't mix it it will last forever- I still have some that was from 35 years ago, and I tried it wondering how it would do. The catalyst did take about twice as long to work but in two days it was as hard as a rock- It's aquarium safe- but wait a few days for complete cure and then was product of with soap and rinse well

Produit arrivé dans ma boîte aux lettres dans une boîte complètement ouverte. Je ne m'imaginais pas non plus qu'il y ait aussi peu de produit ; les boîtes sont minuscules. Il y en a à peine plus que dans un gros tube de colle. Bien fait pour moi j'aurais du regarder plus attentivement la contenance. Pour du modelisme ça va... pour un bateau c'est autre chose.

Lo utilice para sellar fugas en una fuente y hasta el momento todo bien.

This product is awesome. I have purchased it twice. The first delivery arrived as cans in a box without any padding whatsoever. Although the product remained sealed despite dints, but that was lucky. The second delivery arrived with minimal padding that allowed the product to bang around in the box. Same problem appeared including rim damage. I'm hoping that this will not compromise the product as it is stored until use. Clearly this heavy product in cans requires sufficient padding for shipment.

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This stuff is great for fixing all kinds of things. My only complaint... I just ran out and amazon says currently unavailable, don't know if or when it will be available...