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🪚 Cut like a pro, feel the flow — the Ryoba revolution in your hands!
The RUITOOL Japanese Pull Saw features a 10-inch flexible SK-5 steel blade with dual-edged teeth (10 & 18 TPI) for versatile cutting precision. Its ultra-thin 1/50” blade and ergonomic non-slip handle ensure effortless, controlled cuts, making it ideal for both professional woodworkers and hobbyists aiming for flawless flush cuts.











| Brand | RUITOOL |
| Color | Silver |
| Blade Material | Carbon Steel |
| Surface Recommendation | Plastic, Wood |
| Power Source | Hand Powered |
| Special Feature | Finsh Cut |
| Included Components | Jpanese Pull Saw |
| Product Dimensions | 22.44"L x 3.23"W x 0.59"H |
| Warranty Type | Lifetime |
| Item Weight | 10.8 Ounces |
| Blade Length | 10 Inches |
| Number of Teeth | 6 |
| Blade Shape | Rectangular |
| Handle Material | Plastic |
| UPC | 779149815119 |
| Manufacturer | RUITOOL |
| Part Number | RUITOOL |
| Item Weight | 10.8 ounces |
| Item model number | RUITOOL |
| Size | Small |
| Style | Manual |
| Material | SK5 Steel and Rubber handle |
| Thickness | 0.6 Millimeters |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Handle/Lever Placement | Right Hand&Left Hand |
| Blade Edge | Double Edged Tooth, 3-side design |
| Special Features | Finsh Cut |
| Usage | Wood Cutting |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |
M**L
Once again, I am impressed by the quality of Ruitool products. While I was confident that the saw blade would be very tough and sharp, (which it is), I did not expect to be impressed by the non-wooden handle. As it turned out, the handle appears to be very sturdy, and the dark gray rubber-like cover material is both attractive and easy to grip. As a bonus, the company also included a fancy metal screw knob as an alternative to the stock knob to attach the blade to the handle. Nice little touch! Thanks Ruitool! I will not hesitate to buy other products from this company. Note: I had to add that this saw performs very well. It cut hardwoods like red oak and walnut with ease. Pine lumber was like slicing through butter. The secret to smooth cutting is light pressure on the pull stroke; I had only one finger pressing downward. Remember also to begin a new cut by gently pushing the blade away from you at the far corner of the wood to be cut. I believe the ease with which it cuts will surprise you.
K**G
Japanese saw with excellent pull cut. as expected it has two sets of saw teeth - one for cross cut and other for rip cut. need cleaning and oiling after use to prevent rust. better than western saws for soft to medium hardness. will cut hardwoods, but teeth gets worn down faster.
M**L
At the time I purchased this, this was the least expensive Japanese pull saw (of this size) that I could find. All I can say is sometimes you get *way* more than you pay for, and this was one of those times. If you haven't used a Japanese pull saw, before, stop reading and buy this. The two sides have different teeth, allowing you to accurately and easily cut through just about anything non-metal. It handles both soft and hard woods with ease (use the correct side, though). Getting a cut that's straight/in exactly the right place for joinery isn't trivial without the appropriate power tools and I don't have most of them -- if it can't be handled by a circular saw, I'm ripping out the hand saw. Cutting precisely and quickly with a hand-saw is ever so fun for a newby -- because normal hand saws rip through the product while pushing, they bend/bind and screw up the cut. Pull saws rip through the board on the way back which keeps the blade straight, on push, they glide/cutting minimally. Besides being easy to control for precision, it's very capable at ripping through tough woods. It's so good, in fact, that I use my various circular saws/mitre/table saw about half as much. The circular saw will *cut* the board much faster, however, if I want a perfect/near-perfect cut, I have to set up a guide of some kind, clamp the crap out of things, and *then* cut. This saw won't rip through the board in one stroke, but I can lean on the board and cut a straight line with it without a guide, I can see if I'm drifting at each stroke and adjust accordingly -- at worst, if I'm in a hurry and free-handing it, I can hit it with some sand-paper afterward to clean up the problems. Basically, the choice is to carry a heavy circular saw, carpenters square, and a couple of vices to the work piece, set it all up, double check that it's lining up right and *then* cut the board or carry this extremely light saw and start cutting on the line. It's almost always less work to use this saw and it's a lot easier. ...and despite all of that, *it's still sharp after 6 months of use 2-3 times a week*. I wouldn't attempt sharpening this saw, myself; especially the side with the smaller teeth. I assume I can take this where I take my other saws/knives to be professionally sharpened, but I haven't had the need, yet. Part of this is because it doesn't bind, you don't start doing short strokes to unbind the saw so you don't end up with a blade that is sharp at the end and dull near the handle. The whole blade is wearing evenly. What's crazy, though, is that I'd swear this thing hasn't dulled at all -- It's absolutely *not possible*; there's no way this blade is cutting as well as it did when I purchased it with the amount of use it's had, but it cut through a large pantry project last weekend and it sure felt like it was brand new.
H**R
Well made, works very well for both fine woodworking as well as carpentry work. I have traveled the country and I always tell my wife I am bringing my small carpenter's bag with me. That small bag of essential tools and a cordless drill/driver have traveled the country as we have visited friends and family and without exception we have done very small, and more in a few cases, repairs or projects at our stops. You don’t need a lot but the Japanese double sided hand saw is an essential tool and this is very nice and affordable. 5 stars!
A**R
Cut off sacrificial face plate material from finished wooden bowl from lathe And cutting dovetail joints
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