--- product_id: 5765491 title: "MTB Right Friction Shift Lever" brand: "sunrace" price: "107 zł" currency: PLN in_stock: true reviews_count: 8 category: "Sun Race" url: https://www.desertcart.pl/products/5765491-mtb-right-friction-shift-lever store_origin: PL region: Poland --- # Adjustable friction lever for precise control Aluminum build for lightweight durability Compatible with Shimano, SRAM & Campagnolo drivetrains MTB Right Friction Shift Lever **Brand:** sunrace **Price:** 107 zł **Availability:** ✅ In Stock ## Summary > ⚡ Shift Smarter, Ride Faster — The Ultimate Friction Lever Upgrade! ## Quick Answers - **What is this?** MTB Right Friction Shift Lever by sunrace - **How much does it cost?** 107 zł with free shipping - **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship - **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.pl](https://www.desertcart.pl/products/5765491-mtb-right-friction-shift-lever) ## Best For - sunrace enthusiasts ## Why This Product - Trusted sunrace brand quality - Free international shipping included - Worldwide delivery with tracking - 15-day hassle-free returns ## Key Features - • **Customizable Fit:** Adjustable clamp and friction settings ensure the lever sits perfectly on your handlebar for ergonomic shifting. - • **Lightweight & Durable:** Crafted from aluminum, this shift lever balances strength and minimal weight to keep your ride agile. - • **Universal Compatibility:** Seamlessly integrates with Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo 7-10 speed rear derailleurs—one lever to rule them all. - • **Budget-Savvy Performance:** Experience near high-end shifting precision without the premium price tag—upgrade your ride without the FOMO. - • **Precision at Your Fingertips:** Friction-based shifting lets you fine-tune gear changes with unmatched control, perfect for the discerning rider. ## Overview The SunRace MTB Right Friction Shift Lever is a lightweight, aluminum-constructed rear shifter compatible with Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo drivetrains (7-10 speed). Featuring adjustable friction control and a universal clamp, it offers precise gear changes and ergonomic placement on your handlebar. Ideal for riders seeking reliable performance and customization on a budget, this lever delivers smooth shifting with durable build quality. ## Description x Review: ...not gonna believe it! - I'm so impressed by these "cheap" Shift Levers, I thought I'd advise some of you who may be considering them, just how to do it right. But first... ...some words of advice: If you've access to a digital camera, take close-ups of how the cable-wires are routed to the rear-derailleur. Take pictures of everything and from different angles. Pretend you're a crime scene investigator. If you don't have access to a digital camera, make some sketches of how the cable-wires are running and note exactly where their running from and to. The idea is to have a reference to return to, if anything gets strange. Before moving-on to the next bit of advice, you'll need to find where the cable-wire is locked-down on the rear-derailleur and unbolt it from that little clamp that's located on the rear-derailleur assembly. Now, carefully withdraw the cable-wires through their protective shrouds (black plastic sheathing) that run from the rear-derailleur. Carefully withdraw rear-derailleur cable-wire all the way back to where the old shift-lever control is located on the handle bar. Now carefully disassemble the old shift-lever mechanism and remove the entire cable-wire. Try you best not to loose any parts when performing this cable-wire removal. Now, with the old cable-wire removed, you can either entirely remove the old shift-lever mechanism or leave it where it is. Just make sure you reassemble the all the parts - minus the old cable-wire - in case you need it again someday. In many instances, removal of the old shift-lever will depend on whether that lever's integrated into the hand brake levers. Unless you're also replacing the brake levers, leave the reassembled shift-lever on the handle bars. If they are stand-alone shift-levers, you're free to remove, then reassemble and store-away the old assembly. You'll have to decide how far you'll want to go with this conversion. (Again, use care against loosing any little screws and such!) I simply removed the cable-wire from my integrated levers and left the old shift-lever in place...for now. Finally, but most important is cleaning all mechanisms. If you're looking for flawless performance, you'll need to carefully clean the chain, chain-ring(s), rear-derailleur and rear gear cluster before actually installing the new shift lever. Use gloves and kerosene and spend an hour or two cleaning every bit of grim from these components. The kerosene works wonders cleaning most every part, but avoid prolonged exposure on your skin or rubber tires. I spent an afternoon in the sun doing this cleaning. It was like returning to my boyhood days in the hood, when we'd cobble together fixies from ratty bikes that were retrieved from the local garbage dump. After these parts are completely dry, use any-old spray-on lubricants to protect them. I'm old school and keep lots of WD-40 on hand. Thing to keep in mind is everything must be carefully cleaned and inspected before moving on to anything else!!! Before installing the new shift-lever, I carefully disassembled it and removed the indexing cam and spring. You'll need a phillips driver to do this. Carefully unscrew the chromed screw that runs down the center of the assembly and pull away the top black plastic cover. Directly underneath it is the indexing cam and spring. Put them aside and carefully reassemble the components. Use care when torquing the the screws on these shift-levers, as none of it's high-quality and doubtless easy to strip. So use care!!! You really don't need the tiny spring-loaded cam for anything but tactile/audio feedback. I'd just the same get accustomed to knowing where I'm at on rear derailleur from the lever's actual position. That's the idea, isn't it?! I also took another reviewer's tip and removed the clunky hard-rubber cover from the lever handle, itself. Doesn't look bad. I'm thinking of using some black heat-shrink tubing for a sleeker cover. We'll see if it's even needed. Now here's a good tip: before final installation of the shift lever itself, reset the limit screws on the freshly cleaned rear-derailleur. This should help insure there's less of a problem when you actually get around to the rear-derailleur's stepping operation. If possible, download a PDF manual on your rear-derailleur (if you can find one from the manufacturer's website), before screwing-around with-what you might not know how to do. So use caution when adjusting the rear-derailleur's limit control screws! And if you've never done it, get the info on your model and don't be afraid to learn how!!! Locate a good spot for the new shift-lever assembly on the handle bars, that's also easily accessible by hand while riding. I know this sounds obvious but a little attention to detail can make all the difference in avoiding loss of control while steering, braking and shifting. So don't just close your eyes and install it anywhere! Sit on the bike and meditate on your hand's control of the shift-lever. Ask what - if anything - needs relocating. I found the perfect spot next to the integrated brake levers; not far from where the old shift mechanism is. I carefully expanded the clamp and with equal care, locked it down on the handle bar. You may want to hold-off on fully tightening it down, until after you've had some road time with it. Until then, just leave it snugged up enough to hold position while test shifting. Remember, these babies aren't the best of quality and can likely be stripped real easy! Next, I lubed up the now empty cable-wire shrouds (for good luck), then carefully ran the cable-wire that's attached to the new shift-lever through the old cable-wire shrouds, back-down to the rear-derailleur. With the shift-lever set to the six-o-clock position, I drew the cable-wire taught, then locked it down to the rear-derailleur's cable-wire clamp. I did a series of gear steps from maximum to minimum sized range of the gear cluster, then carefully dialed-in the rear-derailleur limit screws. When I was satisfied with the stepping-control of the rear-derailleur, I snipped-off the excess cable wire. Always leave an excess of two-to-three inches of cable-wire as something for pliers to grip when making future adjustments. I couldn't believe that with a little thinking, I could do away with the SIS shifter in one fell swoop! I took the bike out for a night ride and listened to the sound of harmonious shifting of drive chain and rear-derailleur. I haven't heard that sound in decades!!! Most are not gonna believe it! But I've finally accomplished flawless gear shifting with a "cheap" shift-lever, some elbow grease and common sense. Knowing from other reviews that these levers aren't of the highest quality, I purchase two. Far from being the rich kid in town, I none-the-less wanted an extra on hand, in case one goes south on me. Now that I know this conversion can be done, I'm seriously think'n on saving-up some big bucks and going for the high-end thumbie / shifter combo. But we're talk'n a hundred-fifty as opposed to ten bucks a pop! So yeah. I'm now psyched about the prospect of going high-end. Until then, I'm going to enjoy one of the better deals of late: an inexpensive shift-lever that gets the job done! Review: These work adequately. - These work well enough for my commuting needs. ## Features - Drivetrain Spacing: Campagnolo 10,Campagnolo 8,Campagnolo 9,Shimano/SRAM 10,Shimano/SRAM 7,Shimano/SRAM 8,Shimano/SRAM 9,6-SpeedFront/Rear: RearShifter/Rear Derailleur : Shimano,SRAM 1:1,Campagnolo ## Technical Specifications | Specification | Value | |---------------|-------| | ASIN | B001GSSO4E | | Additional Features | Adjustable | | Best Sellers Rank | #302,145 in Sports & Outdoors ( See Top 100 in Sports & Outdoors ) #98 in Bike Shift Levers | | Brand Name | SunRace | | Color | Black/Silver | | Customer Package Type | Standard Packaging | | Customer Reviews | 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars (183) | | Exterior Finish | Aluminum | | Finish Types | schwarz | | Global Trade Identification Number | 04710944226454 | | Hand Orientation | Right | | Handle Attachment Mechanism | Friction | | Handle Material | Aluminum | | Handle Type | Lever | | Included Components | Shift Lever | | Indoor Outdoor Usage | Outdoor | | Item Dimensions L x W | 12.5"L x 6.25"W | | Item Type Name | Shift Lever | | Item Weight | 4 ounces | | Manufacturer | Winora | | Manufacturer Part Number | SLM10RF0S0HP | | Manufacturer Warranty Description | Limited Warranty | | Material Type | Aluminum | | Metal Type | Aluminum | | Model Number | 2110017000 | | Number of Items | 1 | | Shape | Rectangular | | Specific Uses For Product | x | | Style Name | Shifter, Flat Bar-Right | | Unit Count | 1.0 Count | ## Product Details - **Brand:** SunRace - **Color:** Black/Silver - **Material:** Aluminum - **Product Dimensions:** 12.5"L x 6.25"W - **Style:** Shifter, Flat Bar-Right ## Images ![MTB Right Friction Shift Lever - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71m9Bw53npL.jpg) ![MTB Right Friction Shift Lever - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/21FxU5lh4eL.jpg) ## Customer Reviews ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ ...not gonna believe it! *by L***A on April 13, 2014* I'm so impressed by these "cheap" Shift Levers, I thought I'd advise some of you who may be considering them, just how to do it right. But first... ...some words of advice: If you've access to a digital camera, take close-ups of how the cable-wires are routed to the rear-derailleur. Take pictures of everything and from different angles. Pretend you're a crime scene investigator. If you don't have access to a digital camera, make some sketches of how the cable-wires are running and note exactly where their running from and to. The idea is to have a reference to return to, if anything gets strange. Before moving-on to the next bit of advice, you'll need to find where the cable-wire is locked-down on the rear-derailleur and unbolt it from that little clamp that's located on the rear-derailleur assembly. Now, carefully withdraw the cable-wires through their protective shrouds (black plastic sheathing) that run from the rear-derailleur. Carefully withdraw rear-derailleur cable-wire all the way back to where the old shift-lever control is located on the handle bar. Now carefully disassemble the old shift-lever mechanism and remove the entire cable-wire. Try you best not to loose any parts when performing this cable-wire removal. Now, with the old cable-wire removed, you can either entirely remove the old shift-lever mechanism or leave it where it is. Just make sure you reassemble the all the parts - minus the old cable-wire - in case you need it again someday. In many instances, removal of the old shift-lever will depend on whether that lever's integrated into the hand brake levers. Unless you're also replacing the brake levers, leave the reassembled shift-lever on the handle bars. If they are stand-alone shift-levers, you're free to remove, then reassemble and store-away the old assembly. You'll have to decide how far you'll want to go with this conversion. (Again, use care against loosing any little screws and such!) I simply removed the cable-wire from my integrated levers and left the old shift-lever in place...for now. Finally, but most important is cleaning all mechanisms. If you're looking for flawless performance, you'll need to carefully clean the chain, chain-ring(s), rear-derailleur and rear gear cluster before actually installing the new shift lever. Use gloves and kerosene and spend an hour or two cleaning every bit of grim from these components. The kerosene works wonders cleaning most every part, but avoid prolonged exposure on your skin or rubber tires. I spent an afternoon in the sun doing this cleaning. It was like returning to my boyhood days in the hood, when we'd cobble together fixies from ratty bikes that were retrieved from the local garbage dump. After these parts are completely dry, use any-old spray-on lubricants to protect them. I'm old school and keep lots of WD-40 on hand. Thing to keep in mind is everything must be carefully cleaned and inspected before moving on to anything else!!! Before installing the new shift-lever, I carefully disassembled it and removed the indexing cam and spring. You'll need a phillips driver to do this. Carefully unscrew the chromed screw that runs down the center of the assembly and pull away the top black plastic cover. Directly underneath it is the indexing cam and spring. Put them aside and carefully reassemble the components. Use care when torquing the the screws on these shift-levers, as none of it's high-quality and doubtless easy to strip. So use care!!! You really don't need the tiny spring-loaded cam for anything but tactile/audio feedback. I'd just the same get accustomed to knowing where I'm at on rear derailleur from the lever's actual position. That's the idea, isn't it?! I also took another reviewer's tip and removed the clunky hard-rubber cover from the lever handle, itself. Doesn't look bad. I'm thinking of using some black heat-shrink tubing for a sleeker cover. We'll see if it's even needed. Now here's a good tip: before final installation of the shift lever itself, reset the limit screws on the freshly cleaned rear-derailleur. This should help insure there's less of a problem when you actually get around to the rear-derailleur's stepping operation. If possible, download a PDF manual on your rear-derailleur (if you can find one from the manufacturer's website), before screwing-around with-what you might not know how to do. So use caution when adjusting the rear-derailleur's limit control screws! And if you've never done it, get the info on your model and don't be afraid to learn how!!! Locate a good spot for the new shift-lever assembly on the handle bars, that's also easily accessible by hand while riding. I know this sounds obvious but a little attention to detail can make all the difference in avoiding loss of control while steering, braking and shifting. So don't just close your eyes and install it anywhere! Sit on the bike and meditate on your hand's control of the shift-lever. Ask what - if anything - needs relocating. I found the perfect spot next to the integrated brake levers; not far from where the old shift mechanism is. I carefully expanded the clamp and with equal care, locked it down on the handle bar. You may want to hold-off on fully tightening it down, until after you've had some road time with it. Until then, just leave it snugged up enough to hold position while test shifting. Remember, these babies aren't the best of quality and can likely be stripped real easy! Next, I lubed up the now empty cable-wire shrouds (for good luck), then carefully ran the cable-wire that's attached to the new shift-lever through the old cable-wire shrouds, back-down to the rear-derailleur. With the shift-lever set to the six-o-clock position, I drew the cable-wire taught, then locked it down to the rear-derailleur's cable-wire clamp. I did a series of gear steps from maximum to minimum sized range of the gear cluster, then carefully dialed-in the rear-derailleur limit screws. When I was satisfied with the stepping-control of the rear-derailleur, I snipped-off the excess cable wire. Always leave an excess of two-to-three inches of cable-wire as something for pliers to grip when making future adjustments. I couldn't believe that with a little thinking, I could do away with the SIS shifter in one fell swoop! I took the bike out for a night ride and listened to the sound of harmonious shifting of drive chain and rear-derailleur. I haven't heard that sound in decades!!! Most are not gonna believe it! But I've finally accomplished flawless gear shifting with a "cheap" shift-lever, some elbow grease and common sense. Knowing from other reviews that these levers aren't of the highest quality, I purchase two. Far from being the rich kid in town, I none-the-less wanted an extra on hand, in case one goes south on me. Now that I know this conversion can be done, I'm seriously think'n on saving-up some big bucks and going for the high-end thumbie / shifter combo. But we're talk'n a hundred-fifty as opposed to ten bucks a pop! So yeah. I'm now psyched about the prospect of going high-end. Until then, I'm going to enjoy one of the better deals of late: an inexpensive shift-lever that gets the job done! ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ These work adequately. *by S***S on April 3, 2026* These work well enough for my commuting needs. ### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Good replacement for kids grip shift *by D***. on July 17, 2018* The grip shift failed on my 7-year-old daughter’s bike. The grip shift was hard for her small hands, so this seemed like a good replacement. Installation was easy, still not the easiest for her to use, but better than the grip shift. ## Frequently Bought Together - SunRace MTB Right Friction Shift Lever - GPMTER Bike Handlebar Grips, Single Lock on Bicycle Handle Bar, for BMX, Mountain, MTB, Beach Cruiser, Scooter, Folding Bike, Soft Non-Slip-Rubber Hand Grip Comfortable Ergonomic - Boao Universal Bicycle Transmission Line Bicycle Shift Derailleur Cable and Brake Cable Kit for Mountain Road Bike Repair --- ## Why Shop on Desertcart? - 🛒 **Trusted by 1.3+ Million Shoppers** — Serving international shoppers since 2016 - 🌍 **Shop Globally** — Access 737+ million products across 21 categories - 💰 **No Hidden Fees** — All customs, duties, and taxes included in the price - 🔄 **15-Day Free Returns** — Hassle-free returns (30 days for PRO members) - 🔒 **Secure Payments** — Trusted payment options with buyer protection - ⭐ **TrustPilot Rated 4.5/5** — Based on 8,000+ happy customer reviews **Shop now:** [https://www.desertcart.pl/products/5765491-mtb-right-friction-shift-lever](https://www.desertcart.pl/products/5765491-mtb-right-friction-shift-lever) --- *Product available on Desertcart Poland* *Store origin: PL* *Last updated: 2026-05-04*