---
product_id: 10362966
title: "Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive"
brand: "gear aid"
price: "85 zł"
currency: PLN
in_stock: null
reviews_count: 8
url: https://www.desertcart.pl/products/10362966-aquaseal-sr-shoe-repair-adhesive
store_origin: PL
region: Poland
---

# 100% waterproof seal 1 oz precision tube flexible, abrasion-resistant urethane Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive

**Brand:** gear aid
**Price:** 85 zł
**Availability:** ❌ Out of Stock

## Summary

> 🦶 Repair like a pro, wear like a boss.

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive by gear aid
- **How much does it cost?** 85 zł with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Currently out of stock
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.pl](https://www.desertcart.pl/products/10362966-aquaseal-sr-shoe-repair-adhesive)

## Best For

- gear aid enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted gear aid brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **DIY Shoe Revival:** Empowers you to rebuild worn heels, reattach soles, and create protective toe caps—saving your favorite footwear from the landfill.
- • **Precision Application:** Compact 1 oz tube delivers controlled, mess-free repairs for heels, soles, and toe caps.
- • **Enduring Waterproof Bond:** Seals and repairs shoes to withstand rain, mud, and sweat without peeling or cracking.
- • **Flexible & Durable Finish:** Dries clear as a flexible rubber that resists abrasion and extreme temperatures for long-lasting wear.
- • **Universal Footwear Compatibility:** Works flawlessly on leather, suede, rubber, neoprene, canvas, and GORE-TEX boots and shoes.

## Overview

GEAR AID Aquaseal SR is a professional-grade urethane adhesive designed for permanent shoe repairs. It bonds securely to a wide range of footwear materials, dries clear and flexible, and offers superior waterproofing and abrasion resistance. Ideal for fixing holes, rebuilding heels, and reattaching soles, this 1 oz tube is a must-have for anyone who values durability and sustainability in their footwear.

## Description

Fix footwear permanently with Aquaseal SR, a shoe and boot repair glue that dries as a strong rubber and lasts for years. Previously known as Freesole, this durable adhesive can be used to create durable toe protectors, re-build worn out heels, and save soles from delamination. The tough formula is unaffected by heat or cold, so your shoe repair will withstand the elements at a jobsite, athletic field or mountaintop. From rubber and leather boots to tennis shoes and everything in between, repair your footwear with Aquaseal SR.

Review: An desertcart Review: The Novel - I must preface this by saying that I'm not a shoe repair professional, but I have done extensive repair and reconstruction on every pair of boots I've owned in the last 20 years. Most of my focus in this text will be the gross reattachment of outsoles. I will be using the example of my own boots, which specifically are of a cemented construction with a fiberboard insole, but no proper midsole. Construction types vary, so some interpretation may be required. In this text, "insole" is a permanent part of the shoe. Removable padded or contoured parts are referred to as "inserts". Regarding outsole reattachment, I have used various products available through retail (contact cements, E6000, etc), as well as some urethane sealants I've mixed and thinned for the task. Contact cements work great on boots with proper midsoles, but trying to glue stiff cup soles back on a cemented construction just seems easier with something that can fill the tucks in the leather. Neither Shoe Goo or E6000 were as tenacious or stiff as this product. Time will tell if Aquaseal SR endures, but I'm impressed so far. I find it hard to believe that an observant user can experience immediate failures with this product without questioning how or why the problem may have occurred; surely nobody expects effortless miracles. I feel that simplified instructions such as "clean and dry all surfaces" doesn't explain the actual scope of how clean or dry things need to be. Following is my outline for the process as I performed for a pair of boots that have been worn every day for about six years. Let this be both a guide for action and attention. █ Prepare: Remove any shoe inserts. Inserts retain moisture and prevent the shoes from being cleaned & dried in a timely fashion. Remove the laces if they're going to get in the way. █ Scarify: The goal here is to remove debris and old adhesive residue. If the old adhesive is brittle enough to fail, gluing to it will result in another failure. Don't just wipe it with a bit of sandpaper and call it done. I used a sanding drum on a die grinder to grind the old cement off the uppers and insole, and to grind the outsole down to virgin rubber. █ Clean: The goal here is to remove the debris from scarification and to ensure that the materials to be bonded are free of absorbed contaminants. I began with a solvent wipe using lacquer thinner, and finished by thoroughly scrubbing with water and a degreasing detergent (Formula 409, Simple Green, Krud Kutter). These steps are important if the uppers have been oiled or if they've been worn extensively. Permeable materials (fabric, leather, fiberboard, molded foam outsoles) will have absorbed sweat and will be saturated with these residues. Swabbing with alcohol or water alone will be insufficient to remove this residue; it should be washed thoroughly. You can always re-oil the leather after the repair is complete. █ Dry: This is the slowest part of the process. The surfaces to be bonded must be dry. With most adhesives of this type, absorbed moisture will reduce the reliability or strength of the bond. If you cleaned the shoe properly, it will be wet. Furthermore, most soft outsoles on shoes are made from a molded urethane foam. These types of soles will have been exposed while being washed, but they will often bear deeper absorbed moisture if they've been worn regularly (from sweat, environmental exposure). Resist trying to force-dry the shoes/boots with heat. At elevated temperatures, leather will shrink worse, and some contact adhesives used elsewhere on the shoe may reactivate (become fluid). I just threw my freshly washed boots on the roof of my car on a sunny day (~120F for 6h), and then they sat on a shelf for a few days. My boots were relatively quick to dry, since the outsoles are solid and they have no padding which might retain moisture. Drying out a thick foam outsole takes longer. █ Apply: Mask off any areas on the upper that you want to keep clean. Apply the adhesive to one surface and spread with a brush. Press the two surfaces together and pull them back apart. Observe where the adhesive has been transferred and use a brush and extra adhesive to make sure it gets everywhere it needs to be. █ Clamp: String, rubber bands, or stretchable tape such as electrical tape or tile tape works excellent for this, especially on well-worn (i.e. curved) boots or designs with molded rands. Importantly, this allows for pressure to be applied to the welt/rand area at the edge of the sole (see photo). It may be helpful to stuff the shoe with something (foam, rags, socks). This helps the upper retain its shape while under the clamping force. Filling the shoe also helps transfer pressure to the central area of the sole. Leave the assembly to dry for longer than the package recommends. This is especially important if you have applied the adhesive in thick sections, since these take longer to dry. This is also important if you have stiff soles that needed a lot of clamping pressure to take shape; these cases need the adhesive to be relatively strong before unclamping. I waited for 48h. █ Cleanup: I simply used lacquer thinner for general cleanup and to clean the application brush. I did not test it, but xylene or toluene likely work as well. These only work while the adhesive is uncured. You shouldn't have to clean your hands because you wore disposable gloves ... right? █ Finish work: Peel off the tape. Tape residues can usually be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. You'll probably want to take this time to re-oil or refinish leather uppers. Consider taking this time to address recurring sole detachment problems that occur as a consequence of usage patterns (kicking/prying with toe or heel welt, kneeling causing delamination on instep, or use on hot surfaces). Even cheap glued-on soles can be reinforced by sewing, clinch nailing, or riveting. Exactly how this is done depends on the construction of the shoe; you'll have to figure that out. Sewing through the sole is easier than it sounds, but heavy thread (TEX135/FF/0.4mm to TEX410/#6/0.7mm) is often difficult to find retail. Most sporting goods stores sell braided nylon casting line; depending on material and construction, a 25-90lb line may be in the same ballpark size. These can be waxed, oiled, or simply used dry and then impregnated in-situ for strength and weatherproofness. Stitching through the welt on the outside of the shoe can be done with either a needle and pliers, a hook awl, or a eyelet/tubular awl. For Blake stitching through the insole, use a hook awl and perform lock-stitches with the free (shuttle) thread on the outside. I find that it's easiest if you periodically dip the awl in some linseed oil to act as both a lubricant and thread preservative. If your shoes have hard outsoles or fiberboard insoles/midsoles, a small drill can be used for punching the holes; otherwise, a straight awl might be used. Cut a relief groove if necessary to protect the thread from abrasion. █ Adhesive storage: There are lots of complaints that the product dries in the tube or clogs. I have not yet had a tube of this product which I didn't use completely in one job, but I have had the same problem on many other products. The reason varies, but the problem is always the cap. Sometimes the cap fits poorly and does not even mechanically seal. Sometimes the cap shrinks and cracks on exposure to the adhesive (Permatex RTV silicones). Usually it's simply the fact that plastic is vapor-permeable, allowing either solvent egress or moisture/oxygen ingress. There's a reason why these products are shipped in foil tubes instead of plastic tubes. Even a perfectly-fitting plastic cap is a slow death for such products. A plastic bottle with a cardboard seal, a plastic bag, polyethylene wrap are all hopelessly permeable and will offer no protection. Wrapping the entire thing in foil may possibly help, and putting it in the fridge or freezer slows the process (though not all things should be frozen). A simple solution is to make disposable tube seals (see photo). Apply aluminum foil tape to a sheet of thin rubber, felt, or craft foam; punch or cut into circles that fit tightly into the cap. Place the seal in the cap so that the foil will be pressed against the tube mouth when the cap is tightened. It's this metal-metal seal that makes the foil effective. The rubber or felt makes the seal compliant enough to make full contact on the irregular tube mouth. The seal usually gets mangled during removal, so make extras. You can always wrap the tube in foil and throw it in the freezer just for good measure. An industrious person can always make a metal cap for products they use regularly (see example in photo). These Aquaseal SR tubes have 7/16"-20 straight threads, though don't count on impact-extruded tubes to have perfect thread geometry, and don't expect the tube mouth to be square to the threads. It's worth mention as an extension of the low-permeability seal concept, but I don't expect anyone to actually consider doing this. That said, if you can't bother cleaning the threads, don't expect inanimate reality to protect you from your own mistake. █ Conclusion As the photos show, the boots are now reassembled, sewn and oiled. I did not have any trouble with excess squeeze-out. I regret not having taken pictures of the disassembled and scarified soles/uppers. In my case, the soles were completely detached except for the heels (which are nailed). I said "gross reattachment", didn't I? If I can make it work on that scale, surely it'll work to glue sneaker rands.
Review: Worked well to repair Keen sandal sole blowout - Had a pair of Keen sandals that were maybe 10 years old but had not been worn much—so they were like new. Started wearing them to work in the yard and the soles quickly started to separate from the footbed due to failure of the factory sealant. Since these were approximately $100.00 shoes with no real wear on them, I was not willing to give up easily, so I began the quest to find a product to repair them. The contenders were: ShoeGoo I first took the Keens to my trusty shoe repair professional. He advised that it basically was impossible for him to duplicate the factory sealant used to join the sole and footbed. This did not surprise me too much, as I expected there was some sort of magic process they use at the factory and this was not my first experience with sole failure over an extended time. Anyway, he suggested I try the ShoeGoo product. Epic failure—I used it and allowed plenty of time for it to cure, but I didn’t even make it out of the garage before the soles were a floppin. While it might be fine for small repairs under less stress, it just was nowhere near up to this task. 3M Marine 5200 I have used this stuff for many things over the years and know it has prodigious holding power, so I thought—Why not? Again, gave it plenty of time to cure and tried it out. A good sign was that it made it out of the garage. And, it did last for a good while. But, it started to fail too, which kind of surprised me given my prior experience with this product. I probably stretched it out to about 4 months of use before I had to give up on using the Keens. Back to the lab. Gear Aid Freesole (reviewed product) I had heard of this product, but never used it. After using one of their other products, I decided to give Freesole a try. It has been in place for about 2 months and is showing no signs of failure thus far. Unless it gives up the ghost soon, it looks to be the leading contender for long term repair. Conclusion To be fair, I did decide to also use Gear Aid’s Cotol product as a cleaner (but not to speed Freesole cure time) in my use of Freesole. First I cleaned soles generally with water and allowed to air dry. Then I cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Next I cleaned with Cotol per product directions. Then I applied Freesole and allowed to cure under clamping pressure (all products were clamped for repair). I don’t think the Cotol would have made any difference with ShoeGoo. Maybe it would have extended the use a bit with the 5200, but I don’t think it would have made a huge difference on longevity there either. For at home use, Freesole appears to be the repair winner. I’m sure it too will give out at some point, and I will try to remember to come back and update the longevity of the repair when it does give out. If I wanted a repair product for use on the trail, I might consider the 5200 in the fast cure variety. I think it may be a bit easier to get a satisfactory sole repair under less than ideal conditions with the 5200 that should get you out of most any short term jam. Then, when you get home, you can tear it out and use Freesole if you wish (you may have to put some wear on the repair though—5200 is tenacious). My reasoning here is that it appeared to me that you could get away with less clamping force with the 5200 than with the Freesole. Might not be a big deal if working on a small area, but it would be if you had to deal with an entire sole. By the way, if you use 5200 at home, immediately put the open tube in the freezer to store it. That will allow you to preserve it for some time. Otherwise, it will continue to cure in the tube and it will be useless the next time you need it. I have my last bit of Freesole in the freezer too, but I have not had to use it again yet, so I don’t know if that will work on it too.

## Features

- Make long-lasting repairs and seal leaks on hiking boots, running or climbing shoes and even cleats; available in single 1 oz tube or multipacks
- Use this durable urethane adhesive (formerly Freesole) that permanently bond to soles and heels; dries as a clear and flexible rubber that won’t peel or crack overtime
- Create toe protectors on work boots or re-build worn heels with this shoe glue that is abrasion resistant and waterproof
- Apply to all types of footwear including leather, suede, rubber, neoprene, canvas, and GORE-TEX boots and shoes
- GEAR AID products help you repair your gear with confidence, ensuring it lasts through every adventure; from patching holes to fixing equipment and cleaning gear, our mission revolves around preservation and renewal.
- Urethane based shoe repair adhesive
- Rebuilds worn heel and toe areas, reattaches separated soles and creates durable toe caps
- Safe for use on all types of footwear including boots, athletic shoes, climbing shoes and more
- Specifically formulated to offer superior abrasion resistance as well as excellent adhesion, superior waterproofing and long lasting flexibility
- Washable and unaffected by extreme heat or cold. Dries Clear

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B007UTZXT2 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #40,104 in Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry ( See Top 100 in Clothing, Shoes & Jewelry ) #36 in Shoe Protective Treatments |
| Brand | GEAR AID |
| Color | 1 oz - 1 Pack |
| Date First Available | December 8, 2006 |
| Department | Unisex Youth |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00021563104103 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Weight | 1.6 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 1.5 x 0.75 x 4.5 inches |
| Item model number | 10410 |
| Manufacturer | GEAR AID |
| Material | Thermoset Urethane |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Product Dimensions | 1.5 x 0.75 x 4.5 inches |
| Style | 1 oz |
| UPC | 021563104103 066510467498 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Fluid Ounces |
| Water Resistance Level | Waterproof |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** GEAR AID
- **Item Weight:** 0.1 Pounds
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 1.5 x 0.75 x 4.5 inches
- **Material:** Thermoset Urethane
- **Style:** 1 oz

## Images

![Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81JIt8NgeeL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Pattern, Style** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: After you use it, does the opening of the tube get clogged up (like in Elmer's glue)? If yes, what can be done to open up the tube again?**
A: Before storing for long time an opened tube, I put a little petroleum jelly on the thread of the nozzle. Then I take approx. 1"x1" piece of aluminum foil, also smear some jelly on it, cover the nozzle and jam it around the treads. Then screw on the cap on top of it. Store in the freezer. The jelly helps to (1) seal and prevent the solvent from evaporating; (2) prevent sticking the cap/foil to the nozzle. Make sure not to get the jelly on the material you are gluing next time. 
Some hardening may still occur: pry off the hardened part with a sharp tool (see the trick with a drill bit mentioned by J. Brown). I've managed to use one tube many times in a span of several months following this routine.

**Q: The second time I wanted to use this product, it was hard in the tube and wouldn't come out.  How do you get the product soft enough to squeeze it out**
A: Hi, after  the first time I used the Freesole, I put the cap on and put it in the freezer.  The next time i used it, i took it out of the freezer and let it warm up for 15-20 minutes and it came out of the tube fine.  They recommend you put the tube in warm water in the instructions.  I hope this helps.

**Q: Would Freesole work to repair a seam that's starting to unravel above the heel on my favorite pair of leather boots? The rip is almost a 1/2 inch now.**
A: Freesole isn't really intended for that kind of repair, but for building up a worn down surface, or gluing two flat surfaces together. If it's a stitched seam up the back of the boot, and the stitching, not the leather is failing, it might prevent further unraveling.  It probably wouldn't hold together two pieces of edge-butted leather, but if there's a leather liner behind the seam (dress boots), or a reinforcing strip over it (work boots), you may be able to glue the two sides down to it- but clamping it would be difficult and messy. A shoe tree would be the best way to maintain the shape during curing.If it were me, I'd go to a shoe repair shop  - a good one could fix it better and faster.  If they are high quality dress leather boots,  the cost and appearance of a professional repair would be worth having a pro do it.

**Q: I have about a dime size hole in the bottom of my shoe and there is nothing but air to glue it to.  Will this fill up the hole and seal it off?**
A: Sorry I didn't see this sooner. I think it will work for your problem because I've been using this stuff for years all kinds of ways. I wear off my expensive running shoes way too fast on outside of heel.  Because this liquid will just run off the shoe, I clean well with alcohol, make a masking or duct tape dam around outside of heel, then apply stuff, and BALANCE SHOE UPSIDE DOWN SO URETHANE STAYS LEVEL! (use blocks, Legos, rags, whatever).  Spread with tip of screwdriver, wire twisty, etc.   For your situation, suggest you use large piece of masking or duct tape INSIDE shoe for surface to apply urethane (to replace your "air to glue to!), then apply urethane to outside.  Balance shoe upside down, and Try to "dish" it a bit to puddle the urethane about 1/8 to 1/4" deep.  If not, try building a tiny circular dam around puddle?  After cures 1 or 2 days, add more if desired.  Let it cure couple of days before you pull off the tape inside, or even try leaving it?.  If it's too bumpy or uneven, gently level the dry cured rubber with a fine wood rasp or file.  I've done it often.  Then my running shoes easily go more weeks or months depending on how thick I made the patch.  Also, after my HS son sprinter and pole-vaulter kicked his plant foot on the plant board and tore about half the front of the sole off his very expensive, variable-length screw-in spikes, track shoes, I cleaned both sides carefully and then "glued" the sole back onto the shoe body using this urethane.  The keys are good surface prep, apply to both sides, make GOOD contact all over (that used my workbench vice, many rubber bands, pieces of rope ties, wires, whatever), then cure for 2-3 days.  It stayed together and worked fine until he wore them out 2 years later.  I did the same repair to my expensive hiking boots when the sole came loose in back, and they lasted 2 more trips to the bottom of the Grand Canyon for me.  This stuff, used creatively, is amazing.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ An Amazon Review: The Novel
*by C***S on August 12, 2018*

I must preface this by saying that I'm not a shoe repair professional, but I have done extensive repair and reconstruction on every pair of boots I've owned in the last 20 years. Most of my focus in this text will be the gross reattachment of outsoles. I will be using the example of my own boots, which specifically are of a cemented construction with a fiberboard insole, but no proper midsole. Construction types vary, so some interpretation may be required. In this text, "insole" is a permanent part of the shoe. Removable padded or contoured parts are referred to as "inserts". Regarding outsole reattachment, I have used various products available through retail (contact cements, E6000, etc), as well as some urethane sealants I've mixed and thinned for the task. Contact cements work great on boots with proper midsoles, but trying to glue stiff cup soles back on a cemented construction just seems easier with something that can fill the tucks in the leather. Neither Shoe Goo or E6000 were as tenacious or stiff as this product. Time will tell if Aquaseal SR endures, but I'm impressed so far. I find it hard to believe that an observant user can experience immediate failures with this product without questioning how or why the problem may have occurred; surely nobody expects effortless miracles. I feel that simplified instructions such as "clean and dry all surfaces" doesn't explain the actual scope of how clean or dry things need to be. Following is my outline for the process as I performed for a pair of boots that have been worn every day for about six years. Let this be both a guide for action and attention. █ Prepare: Remove any shoe inserts. Inserts retain moisture and prevent the shoes from being cleaned & dried in a timely fashion. Remove the laces if they're going to get in the way. █ Scarify: The goal here is to remove debris and old adhesive residue. If the old adhesive is brittle enough to fail, gluing to it will result in another failure. Don't just wipe it with a bit of sandpaper and call it done. I used a sanding drum on a die grinder to grind the old cement off the uppers and insole, and to grind the outsole down to virgin rubber. █ Clean: The goal here is to remove the debris from scarification and to ensure that the materials to be bonded are free of absorbed contaminants. I began with a solvent wipe using lacquer thinner, and finished by thoroughly scrubbing with water and a degreasing detergent (Formula 409, Simple Green, Krud Kutter). These steps are important if the uppers have been oiled or if they've been worn extensively. Permeable materials (fabric, leather, fiberboard, molded foam outsoles) will have absorbed sweat and will be saturated with these residues. Swabbing with alcohol or water alone will be insufficient to remove this residue; it should be washed thoroughly. You can always re-oil the leather after the repair is complete. █ Dry: This is the slowest part of the process. The surfaces to be bonded must be dry. With most adhesives of this type, absorbed moisture will reduce the reliability or strength of the bond. If you cleaned the shoe properly, it will be wet. Furthermore, most soft outsoles on shoes are made from a molded urethane foam. These types of soles will have been exposed while being washed, but they will often bear deeper absorbed moisture if they've been worn regularly (from sweat, environmental exposure). Resist trying to force-dry the shoes/boots with heat. At elevated temperatures, leather will shrink worse, and some contact adhesives used elsewhere on the shoe may reactivate (become fluid). I just threw my freshly washed boots on the roof of my car on a sunny day (~120F for 6h), and then they sat on a shelf for a few days. My boots were relatively quick to dry, since the outsoles are solid and they have no padding which might retain moisture. Drying out a thick foam outsole takes longer. █ Apply: Mask off any areas on the upper that you want to keep clean. Apply the adhesive to one surface and spread with a brush. Press the two surfaces together and pull them back apart. Observe where the adhesive has been transferred and use a brush and extra adhesive to make sure it gets everywhere it needs to be. █ Clamp: String, rubber bands, or stretchable tape such as electrical tape or tile tape works excellent for this, especially on well-worn (i.e. curved) boots or designs with molded rands. Importantly, this allows for pressure to be applied to the welt/rand area at the edge of the sole (see photo). It may be helpful to stuff the shoe with something (foam, rags, socks). This helps the upper retain its shape while under the clamping force. Filling the shoe also helps transfer pressure to the central area of the sole. Leave the assembly to dry for longer than the package recommends. This is especially important if you have applied the adhesive in thick sections, since these take longer to dry. This is also important if you have stiff soles that needed a lot of clamping pressure to take shape; these cases need the adhesive to be relatively strong before unclamping. I waited for 48h. █ Cleanup: I simply used lacquer thinner for general cleanup and to clean the application brush. I did not test it, but xylene or toluene likely work as well. These only work while the adhesive is uncured. You shouldn't have to clean your hands because you wore disposable gloves ... right? █ Finish work: Peel off the tape. Tape residues can usually be removed with mineral spirits or naphtha. You'll probably want to take this time to re-oil or refinish leather uppers. Consider taking this time to address recurring sole detachment problems that occur as a consequence of usage patterns (kicking/prying with toe or heel welt, kneeling causing delamination on instep, or use on hot surfaces). Even cheap glued-on soles can be reinforced by sewing, clinch nailing, or riveting. Exactly how this is done depends on the construction of the shoe; you'll have to figure that out. Sewing through the sole is easier than it sounds, but heavy thread (TEX135/FF/0.4mm to TEX410/#6/0.7mm) is often difficult to find retail. Most sporting goods stores sell braided nylon casting line; depending on material and construction, a 25-90lb line may be in the same ballpark size. These can be waxed, oiled, or simply used dry and then impregnated in-situ for strength and weatherproofness. Stitching through the welt on the outside of the shoe can be done with either a needle and pliers, a hook awl, or a eyelet/tubular awl. For Blake stitching through the insole, use a hook awl and perform lock-stitches with the free (shuttle) thread on the outside. I find that it's easiest if you periodically dip the awl in some linseed oil to act as both a lubricant and thread preservative. If your shoes have hard outsoles or fiberboard insoles/midsoles, a small drill can be used for punching the holes; otherwise, a straight awl might be used. Cut a relief groove if necessary to protect the thread from abrasion. █ Adhesive storage: There are lots of complaints that the product dries in the tube or clogs. I have not yet had a tube of this product which I didn't use completely in one job, but I have had the same problem on many other products. The reason varies, but the problem is always the cap. Sometimes the cap fits poorly and does not even mechanically seal. Sometimes the cap shrinks and cracks on exposure to the adhesive (Permatex RTV silicones). Usually it's simply the fact that plastic is vapor-permeable, allowing either solvent egress or moisture/oxygen ingress. There's a reason why these products are shipped in foil tubes instead of plastic tubes. Even a perfectly-fitting plastic cap is a slow death for such products. A plastic bottle with a cardboard seal, a plastic bag, polyethylene wrap are all hopelessly permeable and will offer no protection. Wrapping the entire thing in foil may possibly help, and putting it in the fridge or freezer slows the process (though not all things should be frozen). A simple solution is to make disposable tube seals (see photo). Apply aluminum foil tape to a sheet of thin rubber, felt, or craft foam; punch or cut into circles that fit tightly into the cap. Place the seal in the cap so that the foil will be pressed against the tube mouth when the cap is tightened. It's this metal-metal seal that makes the foil effective. The rubber or felt makes the seal compliant enough to make full contact on the irregular tube mouth. The seal usually gets mangled during removal, so make extras. You can always wrap the tube in foil and throw it in the freezer just for good measure. An industrious person can always make a metal cap for products they use regularly (see example in photo). These Aquaseal SR tubes have 7/16"-20 straight threads, though don't count on impact-extruded tubes to have perfect thread geometry, and don't expect the tube mouth to be square to the threads. It's worth mention as an extension of the low-permeability seal concept, but I don't expect anyone to actually consider doing this. That said, if you can't bother cleaning the threads, don't expect inanimate reality to protect you from your own mistake. █ Conclusion As the photos show, the boots are now reassembled, sewn and oiled. I did not have any trouble with excess squeeze-out. I regret not having taken pictures of the disassembled and scarified soles/uppers. In my case, the soles were completely detached except for the heels (which are nailed). I said "gross reattachment", didn't I? If I can make it work on that scale, surely it'll work to glue sneaker rands.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Worked well to repair Keen sandal sole blowout
*by R***M on July 17, 2014*

Had a pair of Keen sandals that were maybe 10 years old but had not been worn much—so they were like new. Started wearing them to work in the yard and the soles quickly started to separate from the footbed due to failure of the factory sealant. Since these were approximately $100.00 shoes with no real wear on them, I was not willing to give up easily, so I began the quest to find a product to repair them. The contenders were: ShoeGoo I first took the Keens to my trusty shoe repair professional. He advised that it basically was impossible for him to duplicate the factory sealant used to join the sole and footbed. This did not surprise me too much, as I expected there was some sort of magic process they use at the factory and this was not my first experience with sole failure over an extended time. Anyway, he suggested I try the ShoeGoo product. Epic failure—I used it and allowed plenty of time for it to cure, but I didn’t even make it out of the garage before the soles were a floppin. While it might be fine for small repairs under less stress, it just was nowhere near up to this task. 3M Marine 5200 I have used this stuff for many things over the years and know it has prodigious holding power, so I thought—Why not? Again, gave it plenty of time to cure and tried it out. A good sign was that it made it out of the garage. And, it did last for a good while. But, it started to fail too, which kind of surprised me given my prior experience with this product. I probably stretched it out to about 4 months of use before I had to give up on using the Keens. Back to the lab. Gear Aid Freesole (reviewed product) I had heard of this product, but never used it. After using one of their other products, I decided to give Freesole a try. It has been in place for about 2 months and is showing no signs of failure thus far. Unless it gives up the ghost soon, it looks to be the leading contender for long term repair. Conclusion To be fair, I did decide to also use Gear Aid’s Cotol product as a cleaner (but not to speed Freesole cure time) in my use of Freesole. First I cleaned soles generally with water and allowed to air dry. Then I cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Next I cleaned with Cotol per product directions. Then I applied Freesole and allowed to cure under clamping pressure (all products were clamped for repair). I don’t think the Cotol would have made any difference with ShoeGoo. Maybe it would have extended the use a bit with the 5200, but I don’t think it would have made a huge difference on longevity there either. For at home use, Freesole appears to be the repair winner. I’m sure it too will give out at some point, and I will try to remember to come back and update the longevity of the repair when it does give out. If I wanted a repair product for use on the trail, I might consider the 5200 in the fast cure variety. I think it may be a bit easier to get a satisfactory sole repair under less than ideal conditions with the 5200 that should get you out of most any short term jam. Then, when you get home, you can tear it out and use Freesole if you wish (you may have to put some wear on the repair though—5200 is tenacious). My reasoning here is that it appeared to me that you could get away with less clamping force with the 5200 than with the Freesole. Might not be a big deal if working on a small area, but it would be if you had to deal with an entire sole. By the way, if you use 5200 at home, immediately put the open tube in the freezer to store it. That will allow you to preserve it for some time. Otherwise, it will continue to cure in the tube and it will be useless the next time you need it. I have my last bit of Freesole in the freezer too, but I have not had to use it again yet, so I don’t know if that will work on it too.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐ Dries out in the tube over time
*by L***R on September 26, 2025*

Seems to work fine, but I wish they made the product in smaller tubes - turns out it solidifies over the course of a year or two if not used often. So I had to throw out an almost full tube after only using it a couple of time. Minus a star for that.

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